Reviews & Scores
A deft dollop of wood is present on the cool, spicy and exotic aromas of mostly black pinot fruit trimmed in jasmine tea. There is excellent size, weight and intensity to the larger-scaled flavors that possess impressive concentration before concluding in a youthfully austere and very firm finish that does on and on. Even so, this is perhaps a bit less structured than it usually is and while it will need to develop more depth to merit the upper end of my predicted range, in magnum format and with the excellent raw materials, it should be able to do just that. Note that my estimated beginning drinking window is based on the large format. *Burghound Sweet Spot Outstanding!*
Full-bodied, elegantly muscular and multidimensional, the 2019 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts is a layered, tightly wound wine, evocative of cassis, rose petals, Indian spices and orange rind. Broad, powerful and incipiently complex, this is a terrific proposition for the long haul. I deferred my tasting with Charles Van Canneyt until as late as possible, as he told me that several protracted malolactic fermentations had only just concluded by the end of harvest 2020. The wines were worth the wait, however, as this is a terrific success for Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat. Rich, dramatic and concentrated, with vibrant fruit tones and ripe tannins, everything reviewed here comes recommended. Yields were low, and alcohol levels range between 13.5% and 14.5%, but the wines are more dynamic than their 2018 counterparts (which a packed schedule precluded me from revisiting on this occasion, something I'll endeavor to remedy before too long).
The 2019 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts 1er Cru is limited to two-and-a-half barrels this year, making it the domaine’s smallest cuvée, and only bottled in magnum. It has an earthy, loamy nose, almost peat-like, very well defined, with ample black fruit. The palate has sinew on the entry and great depth and assertiveness. Very complex and intellectual with that limestone terroir defining the very persistent finish. This is a wonderful Malconsorts for those who worship "proper" Burgundy.
This 0.14ha holding was planted in 1950 and the old vines deliver a very exotic nose with black and red berry fruit, savoury notes, and a strong mineral presence. The structure is firm, with plenty of tannin, but there is also a rich, slightly fat aspect on the palate that is very seductive. Drinking Window 2024 - 2039.
"It has an earthy, loamy nose, almost peat-like, very well defined, with ample black fruit. The palate has sinew on the entry and great depth and assertiveness. Very complex and intellectual with that limestone terroir defining the very persistent finish."