The Chambertin, described by Madame Rousseau as 'imperturbable' for its ability to always negotiate well the vagaries of each vintage, is again aristocratic and fine in 2004. The bouquet offers up a fine mélange of black cherries, plums, grilled meats, mustard seed, deep Gevrey minerality, cocoa powder, toasty oak and a distinct topnote of violets. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and beautifully balanced, with a rock solid core of fruit, perfect focus, and a very long, tangy and ripely tannic finish. This too has just a whiff of pepper on the finish, but I would be surprised if this is just not a youthful attribute of the wine.
Good full red. Tight, pure nose hints at black cherry, licorice and minerals; showing more oak today than the Beze. Cooler and more vibrant today than the Beze, coming across as tighter but less voluminous, with less early sex appeal. Medicinal red and black cherry dominate in the mouth. The fireworks come on the back end, which features complex accents of licorice and pepper; a saline, dusty impression of extract; serious tannic spine; and lovely lingering perfume. Should be long-lived in the context of the vintage.