Ponsot's terrific 1990s are his finest wines since 1980. The 1990 Clos St.-Denis-Vieilles Vignes and the 1990 Clos de la Roche-Vieilles Vignes are the superstars of this estate. The Clos St.-Denis-Vieilles Vignes reveals less of the animal side of Pinot Noir and more of the black fruit character. The aromas of over-ripeness that are apparent in the Clos de la Roche are not as obvious in the Clos St.-Denis. This wine is densely colored, with a huge perfume of black fruits, herbs, and truffles. Full-bodied and rich, with a viscous, thick texture, and spectacular length, like the Clos de la Roche, this is a red burgundy for drinking over the next 15-20 years.