Reviews & Scores
The 1999 Comtes de Champagne is a lovely bottle of wine that is now drinking very well. Given how ripe the ’99 vintage was in Champagne, the elegance and structural integrity of this bottling is most impressive, as it offers up an utterly classic bouquet of pear, delicious apple, a touch of tangerine, crème patissière, incipient notes of nutskin, glorious chalkiness, brioche and a classically smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and beautifully balanced, with excellent mid-palate intensity, bright acids, excellent focus and mousse and lovely grip on the long, complex and wide open finish. This is a touch more broad-shouldered than the equally fine 2000 Comtes, and the two vintages make lovely bookends.
This shows a gorgeous apple, cream and sliced pineapple character. Full and fresh and bright. Always one of my favorite Champers, especially Blanc de Blanc.
The 1999 Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne is beautiful. Understated at first, and also, surprisingly accessible, the 1999 Comtes de Champagne backs up its open, inviting personality with considerable muscle married to vibrant, pure fruit. The long, polished finish bursts with Chardonnay character. As is often the case, Comtes is at its best when it has been opened for at least 1-2 hours, or, even better, with a decade or more of bottle age. This is going to be a fascinating Comtes to follow in the coming years and decades. This is Lot L8283UI00600, disgorged August/September, 2008 (not indicated on label).
Intensely Chardonnay, this beautiful wine, named after the ancient rulers of Champagne, is pure mineral, green and citrus fruits, a steely shaft of pure concentration. Now just with a light touch of toast, this still will mature for several years.
The 1999 Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne (magnum) is sourced exclusively from Grand Cru villages. A small portion of the wine is aged in barrel. This is an absolutely exquisite Champagne that needs to be opened at least an hour or two in advance to show at its finest. Smoke, citrus, mint and flowers are some of the nuances that emerge from this fresh, fragrant Champagne. Deceptively lithe on the palate, the wine blossoms with air as it fills out with endless layers of perfumed fruit. The wine can be enjoyed today, even if it comes across as a touch sweet. With time, that sweetness will develop into the liqueur-like perfume that makes older Comtes de Champagne so irresistibly alluring. In my experience the magnum format is especially beneficial for Champagnes, and older large bottles of CdC often transform into an ethereal drink of the very highest level. Disgorged mid-January, 2008, (not indicated on label)