Lord, I was born a traveling man. I know those aren’t exactly the lyrics, but give me some creative courtesy please, because recently six weeks have seen me all over the world and then some. I’m still not sure if I am coming or going, but if I had to choose, I would always take coming.

This article will be a summation of six weeks in my life, which is about the last time I wrote an article. I will not get as in depth with every wine accordingly. There have been so many incredible wines and places over these six plus weeks, I don’t know where to begin. Then it became clear: just recap it all and let history be recorded. Then it became even clearer, and I had to paraphrase from the extremely talented and gifted Michael Madrigale, wine director of some of the Boulud Empire, hence assigning only three words per wine; otherwise, I would never get through this epic article. I’m getting older, I know.

Rare Selfie

Everything always starts in New York City. I know I am biased in regards to the hometown where I have lived 42 straight years, but it really is the genesis of many people, places and things. And when it comes to wine, there still isn’t a city that throws down as hard as NYC. There may be people in other cities that drink as well, and as often, but the collective wine drinking energy in NYC is second to none.

There was a celebration at Costata of Two Cellars that we sold a month or so ago, and it went a little something like this, hit it:

2004 Fleurot-Larose Montrachet Corked, 1er Cru, eh(DQ)
2004 Blain-Gagnard Montrachet Spice, anise, smooth(92)
2004 Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Sweet, polish, ice(95)
2004 Lafon Montrachet Cream, butter, sex(93)
2001 Roumier Bonnes Mares Dark, forest, unyielding(94)
2001 Vogue Musigny Milk, yeast, twang(93)
2001 Mugnier Musigny Purple, layers, heavy(95)
2001 Rousseau Chambertin Open, clean, great (96)
2007 DRC La Tache Green bean, saucy, garden(93)
2003 DRC La Tache Ripe, gamey, garden again(94)
1996 DRC La Tache Salami, rose, cocaine (96)

A Tale of Two Cellars

The wine of the night was the 1996 DRC La Tache. 1996 is a controversial vintage, not adored by all Burgundy lovers. Too much acid, not enough fruit, that’s the knock. The great ones are just starting to blossom, however, and this LT was a perfect example. It was ‘almost open,’ I wrote, fragrant with its bacon, garden, ham, salami and other assorted deli meats. Rose oil dripped in and out of this long and great wine. ‘Cocaine’ actually came from the crowd, but I’ll take credit (96).

There was a Volnay and a Leroy flight, but I was too busy making the rounds and didn’t take notes, and then there was a 1999 flight at Charlie Bird after the fact, featuring Rousseau, Mugnier, Angerville and others. I can’t exactly remember, so I must be coming up short. The next night I was off to Brazil. Yes, Brazil, that country hosting the World Cup and the Olympics, the B in BRIC, an amazing world just starting to awaken on a global level. It was an exciting and blurry week full of old and new friends, amazing places and great wines. It left me yearning more for this great country.

Feeling Special

I arrived in the AM, and lunch taught me immediately that the B in Brazil starts with Bordeaux:

1982 Lynch Bages Beef, classic, smooth (94)

2004 Margaux Wood, cassis, time(93)

Dinner was at one of the most magnificent homes I have ever seen, and we had a few very big bottles, most notably one out of Imperial:

2005 Valandraud Tasty, red fruits, drinkable(93I)

I choppered outside of Sao Paulo to a gorgeous country home with its own private zoo, but we drank like gentlemen, including:

1962 Cheval Blanc Lush, winter, carnivorous(95)

1989 La Mission Haut Brion Oceanic, black, wealthy(97+)

1995 Pegau Chat du Pape Cuvee Reserve 9L Strawberry, silk, soft(92S)

I went to the capital city, my first trip to Brasilia. We did a blind dance featuring myself and Brazil’s top sommelier, along with the US Ambassador, and we all drank together, some more than others:

1990 Lafite Rothschild Cedar, cassis, olive(95)

2001 Sena Catbox, coffee, tang (90)

2003 Margaux Sexy, chocolate, pine(95+)

2001 Ausone Game, acidity, bosom(95+)

2005 Sassicaia Fruity, different, Zinfandel(89)

2003 Cheval Blanc Rhone, lighter, disappointing(88)

2000 Barca Velha Sweet, seeds, Americano(91)

We also raided the cellar for some DRC and Leroy amongst others, but it was crowded in there, so no additional notes, sorry. My favorite wine of this lunch was the 2003 Margaux, although I will admit the crowd favored Lafite by 3 to 1! Manuel noted in the Margaux, ‘tobacco and coffee.’ The plus in my rating was for deliciousness as opposed to potential, as the ’03 Margaux was spilling out of its shirt. It was very forward, with the full sex appeal of 2003 on display. Hints of garden, chocolate and pine set the stage for a wine with intense character. This was not another floozy from 2003, as many want everyone to believe. There was excellent acidity in this rock star wine (95+).

I know, a full tasting note is better, forgive me for not writing them all.

Then I went to Rio for lunch.

2002 Margaux Tobacco, black, water(89M)

1997 Margaux Expressive, delicious, chocolate(93M)

1990 Margaux High, diamonds, amazing(96+)

1970 Cheval Blanc Menthol, complex, gorgeous(93M)

1975 Vieux Chateau Certan Plums, cobwebs, apricots(93)

1970 Petrus Plums, cinnamon, chocolate(97)

1976 Mouton Rothschild Caramel, honey, creamy (93)

1976 Ausone Red fruits, warm winter, stew(93)

1976 Ausone Red fruits, warm winter, stew(93)

If I wrote up the best wine of this meal, it would be the 1990 Margaux or the 1970 Petrus, but delicious trio of the 1997 Margaux and those two ’76s had me thinking more. Wines like those can exceed expectations; the great ones can only meet them. However, given that I don’t want this article to take an additional month to write, let’s talk about the 1970 Petrus. I have written up this wine many times, and this was a superb bottle. Chocolate and plums were in perfect harmony, and this wine’s sweetness and thickness were both second to none. Spices like cinnamon abounded; this was a wine with a mature knowledge lacking in these other young bucks. Speaking of bucks, the ’70 Petrus is still quite reasonable compared to other Petrus young bucks (97).

I also had dinner, resulting in 1970 Cheval Blanc twice in a day out of two formats.

1970 Cheval Blanc Same, warm, inviting(93)

1950 Lafite Rothschild VA, egg white, creepy(92)

1989 La Mission Haut Brion Midnight, chocolate, full(97+)

1989 Ausone Milk, dust, yeasty (91)

My last night in Rio saw me with The Shocker. He is much better in Rio 2 than in Spider Man 2. We ended with a trio of 98 and 99 point Cali Cabernets.

2000 Krug Clos du Mesnil Thick, citrus, grit(95)

1990 Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon Mint, violet, ham(95)

1995 Margaux Tobacco, cassis, silk(95+)

2007 Maybach Materium Vanilla, booberry, juice(90)

2007 Spottswoode Cabernet Caramel, same, same(90)

2007 Continuum Same, same, same? (90)

It was very difficult for me to differentiate amongst these young, sweet Calis. Perhaps my palate needs more time to appreciate them as much as others, but it was a Margaux kind of week for me, basically a mini-vertical over the course of a few days. The 1995 Margaux was very open and forward, pleasing with its coffee, tobacco, cassis and black forest aromas and flavors. Its palate was soft and silky (95+).

I headed south, close to the border to meet El Gordo for the biggest dinner of them all. I know, he sounds like a drug dealer, but he is actually one of Brazil’s most enthusiastic wine lovers, even if he sells by the ounce and pound lol.

1. 1985 Krug Orangesicle, vanilla, zip (95+)
2. 1992 Ramonet Montrachet Corn, kink, peacock (98)
3. 1988 DRC La Tache Weeds, black rose, yeast blossom (94)
4. 1966 Latour Walnut, cassis, harmony (96)
5. 1945 Calon Segur Chanel box, leather, monster (97)
6. 1961 Haut Brion Cooked (DQ)
7. 1961 Lafleur Cooked (DQ)
8. 1959 Latour Classic, fresh, deep ocean (97)
9. 1928 Latour Bandaid, thick, chalky (95)
10. 1961 Ducru Beaucaillou Garden, green, tobacco (93)
11. 1928 Suduiraut Mahogany, honey, bikini wax (94)

La La La

This evening was extraordinary, enough so that I can’t just give one wine all the credit. As far as white wines go, it doesn’t get much better than the 1992 Ramonet Montrachet. Its amazing nose was sweet, nutty and fruity, with tree bark, corn, kink and rainwater aromas. It was incredibly complex and concentrated. I could taste it a minute later, and the drop of banana on its finish blended well into its peacock tail of acidity. This was a spectacular wine, possessing unreal greatness and transcending the vintage. Caramel coated the glass as my last sip became an everlasting memory (98) .

Let’s also talk about the 1945 Calon Segur. In my humble opinion, 1945 is the greatest vintage of all-time; well, at least the 20th Century. It is stunningly great everywhere, and this Calon was no exception. Cedar, meat and new Chanel box dripped out of the nose, and its rustic edge gave a little pepperoni appeal. ‘Horse sweat’ and ‘aged leather’ came from the crowd, and there was great acidity and pinpoint balance to this stunning wine. This was a beautiful, and delicious, monster (97).

Wine of the Vintage

The 1959 Latour was not surprisingly great. There was gorgeous fruit to this fresh bottle. Walnut, cassis, minerals and cedar performed together like a great quartet. This was ‘deep ocean,’ and its thick and long finish still came across elegantly (97).

I went to Hong Kong, even though there wasn’t an auction, but I lost my notes. I hate it when that happens. There was a bit of a Burgundy Paulee, and over 30 wines were tasted, the best of which was a stunningly delicious 1991 Dujac Clos de la Roche (97).Dagnabbit!

Literally the next day I was back in NYC at about 130pm, and by 430pm I was with Antonio Galloni, arriving at Del Posto for Tuscany in the City, although we drank more than Tuscany had to offer. Bad Boy, The Punisher, The Rev, The Hedonist and even Restaurant Joe showed up, and the pre-party was almost as good as the post-party. Suffice it to say, the legend of Bad Boy grew by about two times thanks to The Ice Princess and The Bad Ass Bitch. They chose their own names by the way. Soldera was the wine of the night, and per The Ice Princess, ‘it slid down the throat as smoothly as…’ Shit, I can’t read my writing again…seriously…

Pictures Help Memory

The Pre-Tasting:
1. 1986 Ramonet Bienveues Batard Lush, zippy, atypical (95)
2. 1976 Philipponat Clos Goisses Wheaty, rusty, orange (93M)
3. 1961 Krug Collection Vanilla, earth, imperfect (94A)
4. 1996 Leflaive Bienveues Batard Corndust, long, mineral (95)
5. 1996 Niellon Chevalier Mature, honeydew, caramel (93)
6. 1978 DRC Richebourg Complete, powerful, epiphany (97)
7. 1982 Krug Clos du Mesnil Tight, might, lift (97)
8. 1990 Tignanello Sauce, spice, grandma (94)
9. 1989 Leroy Latricieres Chambertin Gas, grain, exotic (94+)
10. 1900 Lafite Rothschild Tender, tertiary, creamy (93)
11. 1976 Salon White fruit, easy, delicious (95M)
12. 1961 Moet RD Grass, wheat, vim (91M)
The Main Event:
1. 1982 Soldera Deep, beast, perfect (97)
2. 1985 Soldera Funky, corked, stewed (DQ)
3. 1986 Soldera Tasty, nutty, outstanding (95)
4. 1987 Soldera Darker, blacker, disgruntled (93)
5. 1988 Soldera Dense, leathery, spicy (96)
6. 1993 Soldera Buttery, honeyed, beany (93)
7. 2001 Felsina Chianti Riserva Rancia Yolk, dry, tasty (92)
8. 2002 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Fr. Baked, gamey, exotic (94)
9. 1980 Solaia Greenbean, smooth, goodness (90)
10. 2002 Jacques Selosses Verve, rich, bready (95)
11. 1982 Pol Roger Winston Churchill Vitamins, cream, full (94)
12. 1961 Ducru Beaucaillou Soft, green pepper, plush (93)
13. 1994 Masseto Milky, cola, round (93)
14. 1995 Soldera Rich, buttery, luscious (93)
15. 1989 DRC Montrachet Weedy, thorny, awkward (92)
16. 2001 DRC Montrachet Creamy, smoky, delicious (95)
17. 1985 DRC Richebourg Autumnal, dirty, rose hips (94M)
18. 1999 Soldera Solid, big, classic (94)
19. 2000 Soldera Redder, lush, smack (93)
20. 2001 Soldera Soft, smooth, disappointing (91)
21. 1990 Soldera Meat, materials, longest (97+)

This evening was really about Soldera. As good as the 1978 DRC Richebourg and 1982 Krug Clos du Mesnil were, I will write first about the 1982 Soldera. This was a rare beast, and a good descriptor. Fresh, shy yet deep, this was a perfect bottle of aged Soldera, and its palate revealed red cherry, leather and that Soldera twang that makes it so unique. Fleshy and chewy, it left a vivid imprint on my palate and on my mind (97).

While the 1985 was off, the 1986 was another stunner, definitely in the outstanding category with its tasty, nutty character. The 1987 was deeper, darker and bigger, but its personality didn’t exude as much pleasure as the 1986. 1988 was another outstanding example, ‘rocking’ and consistent with its dusty, spicy, leathery and sandpapery qualities. There was great acidity in this ‘different experience.’ The 1993 was another theoretically lesser year that delivered above its weight class. It was rich and buttery, honeyed and delicious with signature profiles. ‘Burnt beans’ added to the usual twang. 1995 added egg yolks to the usual mix, arguably part of the usual twang. The 1999 was also solid, while the 2000 was one of the redder fruit wines of the family.

Tuscany’s Greatest Wine

The 2001 was the only disappointing one, and the 2004 was just too young and too sweet at this point. The 1990 was a monster, a man amongst boys even by Soldera’s standards. It is arguably one of the greatest Italian wines made, ever. Got my Soldera paragraph in, I feel better now. That deserves its own article, but it is just one part of one night during this insane stretch, and about thirty notes are already missing!

I stayed in New York, and later that week we had another Acker Paulee, again in honor of the Tale of Two Cellars auction that would happen two days later. After thirty-two wines, I stumbled out of there in fine, Acker fashion.

1. 1990 Dom Perignon Rose Tight, vitamin, solid (94M)
2. 1979 Roederer Cristal Butterscotch, gold, dry (95)
3. 2000 Dujac Echezeaux Trees, stems, woodsy (92)
4. 2000 Drouhin Montrachet MdL Corn, long, delicious (95)
5. 1973 Dom Perignon Wheat, bittersweet, even-keeled (94)
6. 1969 Dom Perignon (RD) Mushroom, sweet, yellow (95)
7. 1975 Dom Perignon (RD) Grass, weeds, fresh (94+)
8. 1996 Dom Leflaive Batard Yellowstone, full, acid (96)
9. 1996 Dom Leflaive Chevalier Closed, minerals, potential (95+)
10. 1983 Dom Leflaive Chevalier Rainwater, sweet, stones (93M)
11. 2001 Dom Leflaive Batard Ripe, tender, one-dimension (93)
12. 1995 Bouchard Chevalier Mature, caramel, drinkable (92)
13. 1993 Leroy Vosne Beauxmonts Deep, black, signature (95)
14. 1991 Leroy Vosne Beauxmonts Corked (DQ)
15. 1990 Leroy Vosne Beauxmonts Fatter, sandy, gritty (92)
16. 1998 Dujac Clos de la Roche Delicate, purple, long (93M)
17. 1990 Rouget Vosne Cros P Green, goodness, thickens (95)
18. 1990 Rouget Echezeaux Weighty, black, smooth (93)
19. 1995 Dujac Clos de la Roche Hard, full, solid (93M)
20. 1980 Jacqueline Jayer Echezeaux Animal, wild, funky(93)
21. 1991 DRC Grands Echezeaux Ready, delicious, DRC (95)
22. 1990 DRC Grands Echezeaux Thicker, complex, equal (95)
23. 1990 DRC Romanee St. Vivant Slutty, smoother, spice (95)
24. 1991 DRC Romanee St. Vivant Extravagant, sexy, spin (95)
25. 1985 DRC Richebourg Delicious, spectacular, wow (97)
26. 1990 Dujac Clos de la Roche Everlasting, core, purple (97)

There was more, but I can’t remember it all. There was a disappointing Roumier Bonnes Mares flight at the end with some big-time vintages, but I will chalk that up to palate fatigue, although La Machina had the same observation. Theory number two is that the two last wines not only exceeded everything before them, but possibly destroyed everything thereafter as well. They were superlative, spectacular wines, but by that point, my writing wasn’t so much so.

Next thing I know I was in LA, where Uncle Matty was hosting a Royal Order of Purple Palate dinner with Bipin, Hollywood Jef, The Good Doctor, Say It Ain’t Joe and the rest of the gang. Down at the Bar of Republique, I had by the glass:

Ah, Malibu

1. 1981 Vega Sicilia Unico Leather, cream, semi (94)
2. 2002 Cristal Too young but gets credit, not 3 words (92)
3. 1999 Marcassin Ch Marcassin Vyd Rhonish, kinky, SQN? (93)
4. 1992 Lafon Meursault Charmes Elegant, wax, honey (94)
5. 2007 Lafon Meursault Charmes Round, tasty, simpler(93)
6. 1978 Camille Giroud Corton Oatmeal, dusty, interesting (93)
7. 1978 Gaja Sori San Lorenzo Tar, desert, sweet (94)
8. 1978 Chalone Pinot Noir Menthol, candy, complicated (94)
9. 1971 Ridge Cabernet Stinky, tangy, off (DQ)
10. 1971 Ridge Cab Eisele Vyd Asphalt, chocolate, earth (96)
11. 1971 Ridge Cab Monte Bello Same earth, cassis, ripe (93)

Whites of Different Feathers

There was another flight, but it was off the record…the 1971 Ridge Cabernet Eisele Vineyard had that good, old-fashioned, California Cabernet nose. There were lots of cedar and asphalt aromas, with leather, earth and chocolate flavors supporting its ripe palate. There was a drop of honey to this open and sexy red (95).

A First Growth From California

The next day I was at Spago for lunch, a lunch of Lafleur and Petrus, organized by the Godfather, but influenced by The Catalyst and The Bordeauxinator. It was good to see Bordeaux being opened in the USA, and even better that it was two of the Right Bank’s biggest names.

1. 1985 Lafleur Mint, apricot, cranberry (93)
2. 1989 Lafleur Brooding, deeper, wound (97)
3. 1993 Petrus Plum, olive, underrated (93)
4. 1990 Lafleur Effusive, cherry bomb, jam (95)
5. 2000 Lafleur Regal, saucy, fantastic (98)
6. 1970 Petrus Flamboyant, coconut, mocha (95A)
7. 1975 Petrus Fresh, cherry, perfect (96)
8. 1982 Petrus Velvet, citrus, olive (97)

Petrus and Lafleur always make for an excellent debate, and as impressive as the ’82 Petrus was, as great as the ’89 Lafleur (usually) was, and as delicious as the ’75 Petrus (usually) was, the 2000 Lafleur stole the show. Talk about benchmark. This was a monstrous wine that was surprisingly accessible, with loads of fruit. When I say accessible, it’s kind of like Mount Everest being accessible. There was still a long road ahead for this wine to develop and unfurl. Rich, saucy, plum fruit came across regally, and its thick finish was fantastic. This was Pomerol at its finest (98).

I went straight to a massage, and then straight to dinner at SLS. There were numerous, fabulous people, most notably Hollywood Jef and The Rev, although there were more recognizable people in the restaurant and at our table.

1. 1996 Krug Classic, 96, always (95)
2. 1989 Krug Clos du Mesnil Big, honey, royalty (97+)
3. 2006 Dom Leflaive Batard Sweet, yellow, lush (94)
4. 2001 Dom Leflaive Chevalier Botrytis, stone, fine (93)
5. 1985 Drouhin Chevalier Shellfish, horsesweat, weird (88A)
6. 2001 Clos des Papes Floral, dominatrix, kink (92)
7. 1928 Paternina Rioja G Reserva Caramel, smooth, dust (92)
8. 1954 Lopez de Heredia Bosconia Beautiful, tasty, long (92)
9. 1986 Pesquera Janus Catbox, smoke, red fruit (90)
10. 1991 Pesquera Janus Old closet, thick, peculiar (92)
11. 1994 Pesquera Janus Great, yeast, progression (94)
12. 1970 Vega Sicilia Unico Creamy sex, leather, delicious (97)
13. 1962 La Mission Haut Brion Gravel, dark, improves (93)
14. 1982 Pichon Lalande Silky, peanut, tasty (95)
15. 1986 Margaux Squirrel, ammonia, eh (DQ)
16. 1985 Mascarello Barolo Smooth, tar, leather (94)
17. 2003 Pegau Chateauneuf Capo Booberry, crack, juice (93)

More Of That Good Stuff

I didn’t get much time to take an in-depth note of the Krug, but I did for the 1970 Vega Sicilia Unico, which was still very young despite being 44! The Rev commented that it was ‘not as exotic and as open as other vintages,’ and 1981, 1973 and 1962 were mentioned. However, that was not to detract from the 1970, which was deep, earthy, leathery and creamy. Vanilla sex was the flavor that summed up its awesomeness (97).

I think that was it. I got a couple of Hollywood hugs, although I haven’t had as many Hollywood laughs since hanging with Hollywood Jef for 48 hours. He is one of the most comedic geniuses ever, and I love comedy. By the time I sobered up, I was in Burgundy. The Mogul and I had a date, and the women were in tow.

Burgundy

I ran into many people unexpectedly, most notably The Punisher. I tasted a lot of wines, went to Lameloise, but I wrote up only one event. We had a party, celebrating Etienne de Montille’s birthday, and numerous Domaines were well represented in person and in the bottle.

What 3 Stars Looks Like in Burgundy

1. 2011 De Montille Puligny Caillerets Honeysuckle, sauce, cream (93)
2. 2007 Delarche Corton Charlemagne Sweet, minerals, driven (94)
3. 2007 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne Ripe, honey, dry (92)
4. 2006 Drouhin Montrachet Laguiche Heavy, botrytis, endless (95)
5. 2004 Drouhin Clos des Mounes Blanc Grass, rainwater, sweet (92)
6. 1979 Ch de la Tour Clos Vougeot Souis bois, raspberry, twisted (94M)
7. 1961 Engel Vosne Romanee 1erCru Orange, anise, tobacco (93)
8. 1941 Moignon Amoureuses VA, teriyaki, nectar (93A)
9. 1988 Leroy NSG Boudots Kick, musk, rust, pretty (93)
10. 1989 Meo-Camuzet Clos Vougeot Gamey, buttery, square (93)
11. 1990 Engel Clos Vougeot Celery soda, strawberries, fresh herbs (94)
12. 1980 DRC Romanee St. Vivant Classic, menthol, iron (96)
13. 2000 Chandon des Briailles Pernand V. Solid, bright, character (90)
14. 1994 Chave Hermitage mag Roasted, mint, provencal (94M)
15. 1974 Ridge Monte Bello Cedar, ocean, supple (94)
16. 1963 Taylor Happy, Birthday, Etienne (96)

The 1980 DRC Romanee St. Vivant was a classic DRC from an underrated vintage. It has a great nose full of menthol, iron, blood, mint and spice. This wine was the definition of sous bois in a delicious way, and its rich, saucy and spicy palate had great texture to do with its mature flavors. Hubba hubba (96).Speaking of sous bois, the 1979 Chateau de la Tour Clos Vougeot got an honorary mention for old, earthy goodness. Tobasco, ripe raspberry, cassis and wet fur all competed for my attention. There was this twisted citrus and earth combination, this just right touch of Worcestershire brown, and slaty fruit. It had the best of both old and young (94M).

The next best thing was a weekend in Nantucket, headlined by Gentleman Jim, Lady Agah, Semi-Wild Bill and Jenny P. We would not have been there were it not for Magic Mark, and his entourage, of course. The Nantucket Wine Festival is a great event to kick off summer, and I highly recommend you go next year and enjoy the Acker Merrall VIP experience.

Nantucket

On the first night, we did 1989. As in Bordeaux, beginning with:
1. 1989 Talbot Green bean, cassis, bite (90)
2. 1989 Leoville Barton Fuller, woodsy, square (91+)
3. 1989 Cos d’Estournel Paprika, purple, polished (93)
4. 1989 Montrose Shy yet voluptuous, black, fantastic (96)
5. 1989 Pontet Canet Dry, austere, tight (88)
6. 1989 Pichon Lalande Smooth, elegant, drinkable (93)
7. 1989 Lafite Rothschild Pencil, elegant, weight (94)
8. 1989 Lynch Bages Big, huge, brute (95+)
9. 1989 La Mission Haut Brion Chocolate, blueberry, toffee (97)
10. 1989 La Fleur Petrus Garden, tobacco, tight (93)
11. 1989 L’Evangile Wet, wheat, fleshy (93)
12. 1989 La Conseillante Caressing, plum, spicy (96)
13. 1989 Clinet Big, round, square (94)

This was my third 1989 La Mission Haut Brion of this article, so I guess I will finally pay official homage. Consistently great, the thing about the ’89 La Miss is its wealth of fruit. Black, blue and purple still often masquerade like a barrel sample in this youthful behemoth. Sweetness is at the core of this ‘chocolaty,’ ‘BBQ,’ ‘blueberry’ and toffee extravaganza. It is opulent, and certainly a 100-year wine, although I am still, and always have been, in the Haut Brion camp when it comes to these dueling legends (97).

The next day we tasted in the afternoon, as in 1999 Red Burgundies, blind to change things up. We took votes for first, second and third place, maybe fourth. Votes for first place would be four if four votes, three for second place, etc. Below is in order served:

1999 Red Burgundy

1. 1999 Faiveley Corton Clos des Cortons Nutty, rusty, leaner (88) 11th place, no votes
2. 1999 Groffier Bonnes Mares Pungent, animal, cerise (94) 2nd place, 28 votes
3. 1999 Jadot Chambertin Clos de Beze Austere, tight, black (92+) 8th place, 4 votes
4. 1999 Ponsot Clos de la Roche VV Mushroom, white pepper, ripe (93) 10th place, 2 votes
5. 1999 Roty Charmes Chambertin TVV Ample, complex, improves (95) 9th place, 3 votes
6. 1999 Drouhin Chambertin Serious acidity, flavorful, terroir (96+) 6th place, 13 votes
7. 1999 Vogue Bonnes Mares Plum, dark, vanilla (94) 7th place, 10 votes
8. 1999 Jadot Musigny ‘ White chocolate butter cream’, meat, long (96) 3rd place, 27 votes
9. 1999 Faiveley Mazis Chambertin Olive, citrus, lean n mean (93) 11th place, no votes
10. 1999 Roumier Bonnes Mares Sauvage, zip, flesh (94) 5th place, 15 votes
11. 1999 DRC Grands Echezeaux Jam, oaky, herbal (92) 4th place, 21 votes
12. 1999 Meo-Camuzet Clos Vougeot Thick, long, serious (96+) 1st place, 37 votes!

The Drouhin Chambertin (which is all Clos de Beze by the way) had serious, deep, black fruit. It had the best acidity of the day so far; some of the 1999s can lack a little due to the major fruit of the vintage. That’s the knock for those that want to detract from this great vintage, but there are more success stories than anything else, for sure. There was ‘a real sense of terroir,’ and a long, flavorful finish with kisses of citrus (96+).The 1999 Meo-Camuzet Clos Vougeot really stole the show at the end. This is definitely what I would call an upset; that’s the beauty of a blind tasting. There are always surprises on the positive and negative side. The Meo was seriously shy in its nose, but it was intriguing and deep. ‘Could be the best wine of the day,’ I wrote. Its thickness and length impressed me, and most others (96+).There’s a lot more to be said about this tasting, but we had to go grab lunch, watch the Preakness, and get ready for Nantucket’s version of La Paulee, or La Fete, as it has been crowned. We started with a couple whites before going deep into the red rabbit hole:

It’s A Party

1. 1999 Drouhin Montrachet Laguiche Full, flavorful, classic (95)
2. 1989 Trimbach Riesling Frederic Emile Peach, petrol, minerals (94)
3. 1985 Vogue Bonnes Mares Gamey, beefy, tea sauce (92)
4. 1978 Murrieta Rioja Ygay Riserva Vanilla, creamy, delicious (93)
5. 1994 Vega Sicilia Unico Egg cream, classy, young (95)
6. 1994 Sauzet Montrachet Rainwater, tropical, impressive (94)
7. 1980 Penfolds Grange Cherry bomb, saucy, oy oy oy (93)
8. 1989 Mugnier Musigny VV Brothy, rich, shroom (93)
9. 1971 DRC La Tache Tomato, beef stew, amazing acid (97)
10. 1983 Haut Brion Gravel, carob, smooth (93)
11. 1999 Chapoutier Ermitage de L’Oree Glue, beeswax, viscosity (92)
12. 1987 DRC Grands Echezeaux Rusty, menthol, solid (93)
13. 1928 La Mission Haut Brion Library, tobacco road, chewy (94)
14. 1964 Pavie (Imperial) Stony, dark, excellent (93I)
15. 1970 Vieux Chateau Certan Pure, lean, classic (92)
16. 1982 Lafite Rothschild Satin, definition, refined (95)
17. 1945 Mouton Rothschild Deep, deeper, deepest (98)
18. 1955 Cantina Masarello Barolo Leather, tobacco, brown sugar (95M)
19. 1989 La Mission Haut Brion See yesterday’s notes (97+)
20. Wickedly good hallucinogenic Yellow Chartreuse (97+) Wickedly good hallucinogenic Yellow Chartreuse (97+)

Beauty & the Beast

It was a fast and furious evening, and I didn’t take my best notes, but it was nice to cap another legendary adventure with two legends like the 1971 DRC La Tache and the 1945 Mouton Rothschild. The La Tache was brothy and beefy with an amazing tomato stew and outstanding acidity, while the Mouton was just everything one could ask for in an older Bordeaux. Despite other legends like ’89 La Mission (again!) and 1982 Lafite, there was clearly one Bordeaux a head and shoulders above the rest.

The most unique experience of the trip was my last, an authentic, French, old school Chartreuse outlawed in the US due to the use of wormwood, which apparently gives off some hallucinogenic action. These can only legally be acquired in France, and there is one book that has all the recipes for the different batches, which are blends of different vintages, and the one we had was from the mid-sixties. This was the after-dinner drink to end all after-dinners. This was like a Mayweather knockout blow; I can’t believe I drank the whole thing. There wasn’t much gas left in the tank after that, and two auctions in two cities were approaching over the next two weeks. Time to do it all over again.

In Vino Veritas,
JK

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