At just under 4ha, this is the largest holding for the domaine, located in a perfect mid-slope position. The additional ripeness afforded by this privileged location gives the wine an almost lush character on the nose, with dark fruit and an almost chocolaty richness. The texture is expressive and velvety, and there is a bit more heft here than in the Clos des Ducs, although it is not lacking in delicacy by any means. Drinking Window 2024 - 2034.
The 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Champans is another wine that's brighter and more refined than its 2018 counterpart, offering up pretty aromas of plums, sweet red berries and peonies, framed by a deft application of creamy oak. Medium to full-bodied, bright and lively, it's unusually fine-boned and refined for what is often one of the more muscular wines in the cellar. The 2019 vintage has turned out very well indeed at Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, where Guillaume d'Angerville and François Duvivier have produced yet another superb portfolio. A touch finer-boned and more vibrant than the estate's 2018s—though the monopole Clos des Ducs always seems to transcend the vintage—the 2019s are beautiful wines that exemplify the elegant muscularity that I'd single out as this domaine's underlying signature over the decades. As I've written before, followers of d'Angerville will be familiar with the protocol here: biodynamic farming, destemmed grapes, classical macerations and élevage in barrels—of which some 20% are new, with older barrels generally being retained for five vintages. These have always been seriously long-lived wines, but contemporary d'Angerville isn't quite as backward and slow to evolve as the wines were in the days of Guillaume d'Angerville's father. The use of barrels with a somewhat younger average age—even if percentages of new wood remain very modest—gives them a slightly glossier patina, especially in their youth.