Reviews & Scores
" Ripe aromas of white peach, matchstick and acacia blossom introduce exceptionally rich broad-shouldered flavors that possess a highly seductive mouth feel thanks to the abundance of dry extract that also serves to buffer the redoubtably firm core of ripe acidity shaping the gorgeously complex and wonderfully persistent finish. Wow, this is an impressive built-to-age Bâtard!"
Ripe aromas of white peach, matchstick and acacia blossom introduce exceptionally rich broad-shouldered flavors that possess a highly seductive mouth feel thanks to the abundance of dry extract that also serves to buffer the redoubtably firm core of ripe acidity shaping the gorgeously complex and wonderfully persistent finish. Wow, this is an impressive built-to-age Bâtard!
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey's vines are the most northerly on the Chassagne-Montrachet side of the grand cru, planted more than 80 years ago and producing very small, intensely flavoured berries. This has all the plushness and power of a great Bâtard, with incredible concentration, but it's not a tiring wine to drink as the minerality and freshness kick in on the palate too, bringing some crunchy zip to the peach and quince fruit. Drinking Window 2021 - 2030.
(Colin has two 350-liter barrels of Bâtard in 2017, as he has supplemented his parcel of 70-year-old vines with the equivalent of another barrique of wine from 85-year-old vines owned by his father-in-law on the Chassagne side of the appellation): Bright yellow-green. At once deeper-pitched and more discreet on the nose than the Bâtard but still offering lovely floral lift to its aromas of fresh white peach and pear blossom. Then wonderfully dense, even thick, in the mouth, but at the same time high-pitched, adamantly dry and classic, conveying a suggestion of smoked meat and a powerful, slightly phenolic character more akin to a red wine. The tiny berries here yielded just 28 hectoliters per hectare, and that may explain why this seriously concentrated wine is compact and austere in the early going. Delivering great volume without any undue weight, this very distinctive Bâtard will be slow to evolve and should be long-lived. (13.3% alcohol)
Pierre-Yves Colin's greatest wine this year is the 2017 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, which hails from a parcel of 90-year-old vines planted on the Chassagne side that he farms but doesn't own. Unfurling in the glass with complex aromas of Meyer lemon, nutmeg, honeycomb, dried white flowers, pastry cream and subtle new wood, it's full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with a layered, broad-shouldered mid-palate, excellent concentration and a long, vibrant finish. Pierre-Yves Colin described the 2017 vintage as "pure and transparent," with the wines nicely defined by their terroirs. They are, he adds, "more charming than I imagined—less 'cold' in style." Old vines, he says, produced notably more interesting musts than younger plantings, an observation borne out along the Côte. Colin began picking early, on August 28, as usual privileging freshness; though I wonder if a successful experiment with picking his Corton-Charlemagne a little later than had been his habit suggests that the stylistic pendulum may be about to subtly swing at this address? In any case, he has produced a successful range, true to the strong house style, though showing comparatively little overt reduction when I visited after the harvest. As ever, no distinction is made on the labels between domaine and négociant wines, and Colin is increasingly taking responsibility for farming the parcels from which he purchases fruit.
Intense, delivering concentrated flavors of lemon cake, peach, vanilla and clove that are well-integrated with the structure. Vanilla and butterscotch accents linger on the bracing finish. Still youthful, with all the components in the right proportions. Best from 2021 through 2028.